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TOUR OF THE HIGH PART OF THE CITY
The route we propose here starts at the Estudi General Lul·lià.
The whole route is within the old quarter of Palma, in the
area round the cathedral and the parish church of Santa Eulalia.
Route /Streets: Sant Roc-Estudi General Lul·lià-Zanglada-Almudaina-Morey-Formiguera-Can
Serra-Sant
Alonso-Del Vent- Montision-La Criança-Del Sol-Pare Nadal-Plaça
de Sant Francesc-Troncoso-Savellà-Església de
Santa Eulàlia-Cadena-Plaça de Cort-Palau Reial-Almudaina-Palau
Reial-Estudi General Lul·lià-Sant Roc.
Approximate length: 2 hours
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Estudi General Lul·là |
We start our tour at number 4, Calle
de Sant Roc, the Estudi General Lul·lià. It
was built in 1950 on the site of the previous mansion
and courtyards. If we set out on the tour in the summer
months between June and September, we will find the Centro
de Visitantes (Visitors' Centre) set up in the
courtyard, where Palma City Council centralizes all the
information about the Tour of the Courtyards. The Visitors'
Centre is on the site of what used to be the Universitat
Lul·liana de Mallorca, birthplace of the present-day
Universitat de les Illes Balears. |
| It is now a cultural centre
that is always intensely busy. The courtyard is a classic
Baroque structure, with round arches on columns with
Ionic capitals. |
Deixam el carrer de Sant Roc i enfilam el carrer Estudi
General Lul.lià cap a la dreta. Al Leaving Calle de
Sant Roc, we take the Calle Estudi General Lul·lià on
the right. At number 15, the doorway of Can Llorenç Villalonga opens
up; Villalonga is considered to have been one of the finest
exponents of the Catalan novel of the 20th century and is
without any doubt the Majorcan writer who best portrayed
the waning of the aristocracy, among these very same streets.
Can Villalonga is also a house of modern construction.
We now take the turning to the left, Calle de Zanglada.
Number 2 is Can Marqués, a seigniorial mansion
which was rebuilt over another earlier house in the 18th
century. It exemplifies in a masterly way the influence of
Modernism on the evolution of many courtyards from the beginning
of the 20th century on: the courtyard disappears and is roofed
over with skylights included. This was the first step towards
the transformation of the courtyard into a simple stairwell.
Can Marquès is worth a visit. It is open
to the public and enables us to discover details of the
life of the Majorcan high bourgeoisie of the beginning
of the 20th century.
Opening hours are from 10 am to 1 pm.
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After leaving Can Marquès, we go towards the left
and come to Calle de l'Almudaina. We go down the slope until
on the left we come to a stretch of wall and a gateway in
a wall dating back to the Late Roman period. During
the period of Moorish rule this gate must have provided access
to the area of l'Almudaina, the wali's palace.

Can Amorós |
We come out in Calle Morey. Just here,
we turn to the left and go to the end of the street,
where Plaça de Santa Eulàlia begins. Number
1 is Can Amorós. In its interior we can
see a beautiful courtyard, reformed like many others,
but which still conserves red marble arches and columns,
typical of the high point of the Baroque. |
Retracing our steps, we go back down the slope of Calle
Morey, and stop outside number 8, Can Ordinas d'Almadrà. This
seigniorial house offers us a courtyard that is of great
interest, because we can see one of the best surviving examples
of late Gothic carving in the doorway to the studio on the
right. For curiosity's sake, a Roman tombstone, found when
the house was reformed, is on view under the staircase.

Can Oleza |
At number 9 of Calle d'en Morey, we come face to face
with the magnificence of Can Oleza, a paradigm
of the Baroque: ionic columns with their pronounced
entasis, very depressed arches, a loggia and wrought
iron banisters on the staircase.
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Go a little further on down the street, and turn into Calle
la Portella. The first building you came to is Can Pasqual,
at number 4. It is the paradigm of the eclecticism of many
courtyards in Palma: 19th century staircase (in the novecentista
style), neo-Gothic windows, and Baroque columns.

Ca la Gran Cristiana |
Going on further down, we come to the Ca a Gran
Cristiana, today the home of the Museu de Mallorca,
and formerly the house of the Ayamans family. The
courtyard is the result of a reform of the Early
Gothic structure. It has baroque features, (the balconies
of the main floor, the arches in the vestibule) but
also neo-Gothic and Elizabethan (isabelino: a 19th
century Spanish style, 1830 - 1870.) touches, (the
windows of the attic) as a consequence of a series
of alterations carried out between the 16th century
and the 20th.
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Ca la Gran Cristiana Museu de Mallorca. Calle
Portella, 5. Palma. Exhibits collections of archaeology,
fine arts and decorative arts. Opening hours: from
Tuesday to Saturday - from 10 am to 7 pm. Sundays -
from 10 am to 2 pm. Mondays and Public holidays - closed.
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On to number 8 in Calle de la Portella., Can Espanya
Serra receives us with its great neo-Gothic staircase.
Number 9, Can Morey-Sant Martí used to be
the house of the deceased painter J. Torrents Lladó.
There is wonderful stone wall on the left topped by a neo
Gothic gallery.
| Museo J. Torrents Lladó A permanent collection
of over 100 of the artist's works. It also has rooms
for temporary exhibitions. Opening hours: from Tuesday
to Friday - from 10 am to 6 pm. Saturdays and Public
holidays - from 10 am to 2 pm. Sundays and Mondays: Closed |

Cal Marquès de la Torre |
The last courtyard to visit in Calle de la Portella
on this tour is that of Cal Marquès de la
Torre. Situated at number 14, it is the seat of
the Colegio Oficial de Arquitectos de Baleares. This
grand building was constructed at the end of the 16th
century, in accordance with plans drawn up, by the
engineer Martín Gil de Gainza, who was working
on the walls of the city at the time. It is Renaissance
in style except for the great novecentista staircase.
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Retracing our steps up the Calle de la Portella, we turn
right into Calle de la Formiguera. Straight away we come
to the great building of Can Formiguera, better known
as Compte Mal. This is a huge 17th century mansion, the most
striking features of which are the great balcony, the wide
eaves, and the bridge over Calle de Can Serra which joins
the two main buildings of the house.
Walking on a little further up the street, we come to the Arab
Baths, one of the few examples of Moorish art still
preserved from the ancient Madina Mayurka. The building
dates back to the end of the 10th or the beginning of the
11th centuries.
To be able to visit the next courtyard, we must go up Calle
de Can Serra as far as Calle de Sant Alonso. At number 1
of this street, we come to Can Vanrell, which is small
but very representative of the courtyards of the 18th century:
marble Ionic columns and basket-handle arches. Further along
the same street, we go past a Modernist building on our right
until we reach number 11, Can Muntaner, where we can
see the wooden coffered ceiling in the hallway and a segmental
arch that separates it from the staircase.

Can Lladó |
We leave the Calle de Sant Alonso to take the Calle
del Vent, on the right. Can Lladó is
in this very narrow street; the medieval origins of
the house are demonstrated by the wooden coffered ceiling
in the hallway. The courtyard has a strange trapezoidal
shape.
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Further along Calle del Vent, we reach Calle de Monti-sion,
go past the church of the same name, the façade of
which, built between 1624 and 1683 along early Baroque lines,
shows the figures of the Inmaculada Concepción, San
Ignacio y San Francisco Javier.
Turning left we find number 13, where La Criança is
to be found. This is a 16th century building which housed
an institution dedicated to the education of the daughters
of the nobility.

Can Marquès del Palmer |
En sortir de La Criança haurem de On leaving
La Criança, we will retrace our steps only a
few metres to the Calle del Sol. Once there, we take
a left turn and continue as far as number 7, the Casal
del Marquès del Palmer with its magnificent
Renaissance façade, a unique example of decorative
stone wall-carving.
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Number 3, Calle del Sol is one of the most interesting
houses on our tour, Cal Comte de la Cova. Here we
can appreciate the architecture typical of the early Gothic
courtyards: the wooden coffered ceiling in the hallway, the
columns with octagonal bases, and the staircase formed by
late Gothic traceried cloisters. Further along the street,
we have to go towards Calle de Pere Nadal, on the right.
On turning into this street, we come out in Calle Convent
de Sant Francesc. To our right, in the Plaça de Sant
Fancesc itself, we will see the great courtyard of Can
Coll, otherwise known as Can Moragues del Racó.
This is a courtyard that was reformed in the 20th century,
but which still conserves a great Baroque staircase with
wrought iron banisters. This house was the site of Majorca's
Mint, the Bossa d'Or granted as a concession to the knight
Pere Descatlar in the 15th century.
After leaving this great mansion, it is well worth visiting the Basilica
de Sant Francesc, where the remains of the Blessed Ramon Llull
are at rest. It is a church with one nave and side chapels. Construction
was started during the reign of Jaume II, around the year 1281.The church
underwent later alterations: the original beams were substituted by a
vaulted roof and its Gothic façade gave way to a great Baroque
doorway and pediment, with a sculpture by Francisco Herrera. Next door
to the Basilica, the Cloisters are well worth visiting: trapezoidal in
shape with lobular, ogival, arches.
They have been recently restored, and it is easy to see
the progression of different styles and eras in its structure,
from the north gallery, the oldest, to the south gallery,
which was finished in the 15th century.

Can Ribes de Pina |
After leaving the Plaça de Sant Fancesc by
Calle Troncoso, we turn to the left into Calle de Savella.
At number 23, we come to Can Ribes de Pina,
where, in the courtyard, it is possible to admire its
traditional 17th century characteristics.
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In the same street on the left we come first to Can Catlar
del Llorer at number 15. This is a very old building
dating from the 13th century that, together with Cal Comte
de la Cova, is one of the best examples of the early Gothic
courtyard with its octagonal columns and the sobriety of
its arches. Before leaving the street, we can see the contrast
of styles at number 4 where Can Vivot is, an example
of the grandiosity of the Baroque.

Can Vivot |
Red marble columns, Corinthian capitals, basket handle
arches, depressed to give the impression of lightness,
the immense staircase, fit for an emperor, with wrought
iron banisters. This was the house where Phillip's
followers plotted and conspired in favour of the Bourbons
during the War of the Spanish Succession.
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Now we continue our tour from behind the Church of Santa
Eulàlia. This is a Gothic church, the construction
of which started in the 13th century and was one of the
first to be founded after the Catalan conquest in 1229.
Santa Eulàlia is the only Majorcan Gothic church
with three naves, with the exception of the Cathedral.
After walking along one side of the church, we arrive in
the square of the same name, where we can observe the main
façade of the Church, neo-Gothic in style, which
was the work of J.M. Sureda i Veri between the years 1894
and 1924.
If we then take the very short Calle Cadena, we come out
in Plaça de Cort, where the Town Hall stands. The Ayuntamiento
de Palma has a Baroque façade and an impressive
side wing, and is a clear example of the transition from
the Baroque to Mannerism. It was finished in 1680.

Can Oms

Can Bordils
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Staying on the same side of the road as the Town Hall,
we start into Calle del Palau Reial. The first building
we come to is the seat of the Consell Insular de
Mallorca, one of the most representative examples
of the neo-Gothic. We need to turn into Calle de l'Almudaina
to visit two more courtyards.
The first, Can Oms at number 27, has three
differentiated spaces, separated by basket handle arches
on Ionic columns and capitals. The second, at number
9 is Can Bordils, medieval in origin although
it has been subjected to a series of reforms over the
years; the definitive alterations taking place in the
20th century were designed by the architect Guillem
Corteza.
Recently, under the direction of Miquel Vicens, the
building has been refurbished as the Archivo Municipal
de Palma.
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Retracing our steps we go back along Calle de Palau Reial,
which we had turned off, to go down Calle Estudi General
where the last courtyard on our tour is to be found: Can
Alemany. Perhaps the most characteristic aspect of this
courtyard is its Gothic staircase, which is still conserved
despite various reforms. The courtyard now has a curious
mixture of elements: columns with octagonal bases from sometime
prior to the 18th century and a 19th century gallery
Leaving Can Alemany and turning to the right, we will find Calle de Sant
Roc. We will have arrived back at our starting point.
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